This 42" long x ½" diameter Ash War Bow shaft is perfect for medieval enthusiasts. Use this sturdy ash shaft to make arrows for your heavy Medieval English War Bows. These shafts have a long 5° point taper on them to accept a 23/64" diameter field point. NOTE: the shaft is a larger diameter tha...n the diameter of the point, but the taper size does match. As these shafts are raw ash, they must be heat straightened and sealed as per other ash shafting. Available by the each at 42" long ½" diameter Ash shafts, or as a kit with 3 feathers, sinew, instructions and a 300 grain Atlatl Dart Point. Please specify. NOTE: These shafts are handmade to create a shaft that is approximately 1/2" diameter. Being a hand made item, the shafts can vary somewhat from the 1/2" diameter size.
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Ash shafts
these ash shafts are a good quality shaft with a mostly smooth finish. the point tapers will require some shortening to make a perfect fit for 23/64 field points. these shafts on average weight about 1100 grains per shaft. all in all a good strong arrow shaft with a beautiful grain. great for war bows.
I am not sure if we would be able to accommodate that request or not. Your best bet would be to send an email to: [email protected] with all the information. Someone will then get back with you if that is something we could accommodate or not.
Approximately 1900gr .
I am not sure if we would be able to accommodate that request or not. Your best bet would be to send an email to: [email protected] with all the information. Someone will then get back with you if that is something we could accommodate or not.
Unfortunately we do not offer an assembly service on these arrows.
These will spine around #110
The feathers are full length and will be approximately 8 inches long.
The kit will only include 1 shaft.
There is one (1) arrow per kit. It is long enough to cut to size if needed, with all components pictured to make the arrow.
These have a five Hickory taper all the way down to 5/16, they do not come with one knocks that is something that you would have to add
It is a parallel shaft except for the front which has the 5° taper to accomidate the stanard point. You'll have to make the self nock yourself.